The Return,Ghana
- May 4
- 4 min read
I’ve never actually been to Ghana but when I say the return, it’s more symbolic than actual. Ghana welcomes members of the diaspora, no matter where you currently reside but that’s another topic for another time.
For most of us, you need a visa to enter Ghana and they request you have the visa before coming to Ghana. The process takes anywhere from three to ten days depending on your method of delivering.
Checking in for your flight won’t be easy as an employee at the airport has to manually enter your visa information, so this is best done at the airport, Atleast for me it was.
The flight over was roughly nine hours but once you landed, you could feel the difference. The difference here would be the heat but also the warmth of its people. A health inspector first checks your yellow fever vaccine card and compares the name to the one on your passport. Then you’re vetted by passport control where they take photos and fingerprints and inquire about your stay. Lastly, its customs before exiting the airport.
Outside the departure gates are taxi stands for most of the hotels. I stayed at the Accra Marriott Hotel which is less than ten minutes away from the airport. My room wasn’t ready yet but I checked in, placed my bag in holding and went to take a nap at the pool. I had two hours before my tour and I wanted to be well rested after that long flight.
At 10:00 AM sharp, my guide picked me up and we were on our way to the W.E.B DuBois Center. Here we learned about his time in Ghana and how he acted as an advisor to the first president. We toured his home and viewed the different memorials they had on site.
Next up was the Ghana National Museum. This is a good place to learn about the history, culture, food and traditions of the country with live examples. On the outside there is also a fleet of cars used by all former presidents which includes the bullet ridden car of Kwame Nkrumah.
From there we headed to the Mokola Market. This is the largest open air market in Ghana. There are stores and stalls but some vendors sell on the street and on the move in wheel barrows and buckets at the top of their head.
We then visited the Kwame Nkrumah National Park. The park is on the site of the former British polo ground where the president declared independence for the country. There is a gold statue on the exact site in remembrance of that day. Behind it, there is a shrine where he is laid to rest alongside his wife. There are also two museums commemorating his work and life in Ghana.
Next up was the Center for National Culture where you can marvel in the arts of the local people, purchase their craft, buy food as well as a myriad of other things. There is even a barber shop. This is directly behind the national park.
The last stop on the tour was Independence Square. Independence Square might be the most photographed place in the county. Here you will see a vast amount of people vying for that incredible picture with the star. Next door is Black Star Square and as luck would have it, there was an Easter celebration taking part so I got to see nearly 15,000 people take place in church service and other activities that day.
As a bonus, the guide added in Jamestown. It has an old light house on the location of a former trading port. There is also a fort, which was use to house slaves and the branding station across the street. From all the places viset that day, this area needs to be better preserved for its history and time.
To wind down the day, I had to feast on one of my favorites, Jollof Rice and beef. This was excellently prepared and the precursor for a good rest. I managed to spend the rest of the day poolside with an unlimited supply of fresh watermelon juices.
The next day began early, at 5:00am with a three and a half hour drive to the Cape Coast. The first activity on the coast was a visit to Kakum National Park. Here, we walked the Canopy Walkway, which has six elevated bridges above the national park. Also got to taste fresh coconut water and palm wine from the area.
We then headed to Elmina Castle. Nestled on the south of the coast, Elmina Castle has a history with over 500 years. First as a Portuguese church, then trading routes for the Portuguese, Danes and British through different periods. After reading the material and visiting a few holding cells, the mood was a bit much, so we took a much needed break for lunch .Banku and Talapia was one of more desirable options as most others came with an interaction of Jollof rice. As much as I like Jollof, I wanted to try other options. Paired with a bottle of Zobo(sorrel) this was an awesome meal.
Last stop for the day, the Cape Coast Castle. Build by the British in the 1600s , it had the same gruesome experience as the Elmina Castle. The country has since renamed the Door or No Return into the Door of Return and give great insights into the actions behind it. For those trying to understand the history of the country from past to now, this is a great stop but a heavy one. I pretty much rode back in silence going over the day in my head.
Returning to Accra at night, I got to see how the hustle and bustle kept up even when most of the city slept. The people are vibrant and most places come alive at night.
Ghana in itself was a great experience and one that I plan to experience for a second time. Whether it be history, food, or curiosity, its a place I highly recommend for you too.
Editors Note: Opinions expressed here are the author's alone, not those of any parties mentioned. None of the entities mentioned has reviewed, approved or endorsed the content listed in this post.
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